The Land of Tibetans in Dharamshala: Closer to Heaven

It is always nice to have a vacation in a faraway place, to unwind and escape from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis. It is a great time to relax and become one with yourself while enjoying the soothing ambiance of the place.

Since I am in India for the second time, It was surprising to receive an invitation to visit the Northern State of Himachal Pradesh, particularly in the highlands of Dharamshala--the place of the Tibetans-in-exile.

From the Tibetan Colony called Majnu Ka Tilla in Delhi, it took approximately 12 hours to reach Dharamshala. The bus departed at 7 pm on the 22nd, and I arrived at 7 am the following day. It is the longest land travel on a single journey I have experienced. 

At the boarding point in Delhi, I got to talk to some people about the history and culture of Tibet and its people living in the upper Dharamsala called Mcleod Ganj. The bus got delayed for an hour and a half, so I was lucky not to get bored while waiting. It was a pleasant conversation, and I have instilled the knowledge I gained at that moment.

In the bus stand of Dharamsala, It took approximately 10 minutes to reach the hotel at Naddi Village--about 3 km. from Mcleod Ganj. The journey was smooth since they had a good road linking the northern state. When I stepped off the bus, it was so cold as the temperature reached near zero degrees centigrade. The whole day was rainy, the place was covered by fog, and the wind was chilly.

I had time to set my things and prepare myself to go to Mcleod Ganj after breakfast and a few hours to rest and contemplate. Back in Delhi, I have already read about popular tourist spots and activities. I wanted to spend my time wisely and get the best thing that Dharamsala could offer, so it is nice to have planned ahead of time.

The Dhauladhar Range

Although it rained on my first day of the visit, I got to see the picturesque panoramic view of the Dhauladhar range, which is widely visible on the balcony of a hotel in the Kangra district. Viewing the snow-capped mountain range with the tall deodar and pine trees in the Alps is truly magnificent. The Dauladhar range offers a great view of the whole Kangra Valley. Currently, the mountain is closed for trekking since the weather is unpredictable. 

I have planned to go trekking on the triund hill, which is about 9 km. from Mcleod Ganj, and it would take 2-3 hours to reach there, and they said it's a good place for sightseeing the frosty mountains and the alpine forest at the ridge of the Dhauladhar range. Since it is temporarily closed, I only get to see it from afar while imagining the life of the Naddi/Gaddi people living in the cold mountains and what it is like to be there at the snowline of the Himalayan foothill. I needed 3 thick blankets at night, and going closer to the snowy mountains would be a great challenge to conquer.

I am in the Naddi Village and have witnessed their peaceful and harmonious lives. In a culturally preserved place, they live simply with contentment and happiness. They are friendly people, and seeing them early in the morning bringing their cows in a greener pasture on this hill road is a beautiful experience.

In the afternoon, I prepared to go to Mcleod Ganj to Tsuglagkhang temple--the place of the Dalai Lama. It was drizzling and cold, but I dared to go some sightseeing. I walked uphill and entered the temple full of monks and tourists.

I have felt the place's serenity and seen the monks' pleasant smiles while roaming around the Namgyal monastery of the temple. I have been there for 2 hours to glimpse the Tibetans-in-exile. They are peaceful and happy despite the misery they have suffered under Chinese rule in Tibet.

The Tibetans in Mcleod Ganj have formed their Government under the leadership of the 14th Dalai Lama. I met a Tibetan souvenir vendor just below the temple and briefly discussed their condition. I then learned that the Tibetans fled to Dharamsala after the failed uprising in 1959 headed by the current Dalai Lama. They suffered cruelty and harsh treatment from the Chinese invaders, and the best thing they did was to have themselves in exile. 

After 50 years, the Chinese Government has kept its sovereignty, which they have fought for several decades. The history I learned from this encounter gave me knowledge of the existence of the Tibetans in Dharamsala.

Adjacent to the Namgyal monastery is the residence of the Dalai Lama. The most surprising moment was when I learned that the Dalai Lama was in town and had been meditating in his room for that period. He will give a talk on the morning of the 25th. It is open to the public, and there is no need to register for this event. My visit was good luck, and I will attend the lecture of His Holiness, The Dalai Lama. I still have a day to explore the place before the course of the Dalai Lama, so I need to prepare myself to see and meet the Holy Man.

It was raining in the afternoon before I left the Monastery, so I decided to have a cup cafe latte in the nearby coffee shop. I stayed briefly to warm up since I couldn't go out and bear the downpour of rain. I thought of not getting sick and reserving my energy to see the Dalai Lama, so I bought an umbrella and started walking up to the square center, the central area of Mcleod Ganj. 

Along the way, I passed some souvenir shops, bookstores, tea shops, restaurants, and hotels. It was still raining when I standby to wait for the cab driver to return to the hotel. I planned to stay in Mcleod Ganj until 8 pm, but since it was raining and cold, I decided to rest and be ready for another journey the next day.

Bearing extreme temperatures is a challenge. I am used to a tropical and humid climate, but I am now becoming tolerant of cold weather that reaches a negative degree centigrade at some point. In a few days, I will be leaving this heavenly place, and what I will be carrying is not a thing but a collection of memorable experiences from the finest areas of the sacred mountain and the wisdom from the great people.

© 2013 Del Cusay

Related Post:

👉 The Gaddi Tribe of Naddi Village

👉 Living with the Gods in McLeod Ganj

Chilly Winds of India's Wintertime: A Reflection

"India could be a land of contrast, but I have witnessed and learned how they persevere and raise the bar towards excellence, making them achieve economic progress and rising power. Some serious challenges may be confronting them, but with faith, unity, and goodwill, India could gain something it deserves."

The wintertime in India is about to end, yet early morning is still misty and foggy while late-night gets chilly. The weather is a bit warm in the daytime, especially in the afternoon, but it is okay and favorable weather. A few days ago, when I arrived on the evening of the 16th, the temperature was quite tolerable, and I did not wear a thermal jacket compared to last year when I reached for the first time in November when the weather was cold and cold chilly.

I left India in the summer of mid-April last year. It was about ten months ago, and now I am back for the second time. I had a pleasant experience on my first visit since the people were nice and friendly. The warm acceptance and welcoming smile are their way of showing hospitality to visitors. This is what I felt like when I arrived a few days ago; in return, greeting people in an Indian way, 'Namaste,' is an excellent start to embracing their culture and beliefs.

Misty and chilly morning in Dwarka, Southwestern Delhi

I never imagined that I would go to India and become exposed to its cultural and social norms. Back in the Philippines, I learned the Indian salutation 'Namaste' but later realized its spiritual significance. It is not just a standard greeting but means that when two or more persons meet, 'the presence of God in me meets the presence of God in you' is the real significance of this sacred word. In a philosophical context, it is fitting since God is present in everyone and only needs recognition. 

People of all ages greet 'Namaste' at home, in the street,  in a social gathering, and even on the phone. Bowing of the head while putting hands together in the center of the chest shows courtesy, friendliness, love, and humility. This simple yet graceful gesture is significant even in today's time. However, I have observed that this salutation is declining due to the influence of Western culture. Saying 'hi and hello' is what I have been receiving. Last year, when I was in Mumbai, I seldom greeted 'Namaste'; what I have been hearing most of the time is 'hi and hello.'

When I was in elementary, we used to greet our teachers and visitors in a Filipino way, 'Mabuhay.' Still, before the 20th century ended, it was changed to 'hi and hello,' a formal and casual way of greeting in the West. 

In India, 'Namaste' as a form of salutation feels like being at peace with someone, even without using bowing and hand gestures. Just uttering the word is already a humble experience like no other in the world. 

For someone not used to cold weather, especially the winter season, it is not easy to wake up early. The good thing is that I kept my winter clothing here when I returned home to Manila last year. A morning walk is possible, but I cannot do jogging or vigorous exercises on the street, or else I get chilled.

Foggy streets of Dwarka in Southwest Delhi

On a foggy and misty morning, people start their day bearing the cold. They wear 
thick clothing usually made of wool while riding on a bicycle. I have seen some students chatting while patiently waiting for their school bus. They tolerate the winter season and have nothing to complain about but to bear with it.

In Mumbai and the rest of southern Indian states, they don't get this kind of weather that northern India, including Delhi, is experiencing. The Himalayan region of India is icy at this time and could even have some snow in the mountain range. Dharamsala is one of the most visited places in India and most popular among foreign travelers.

In the cold weather, having a cup of hot tea with milk is nice, or Indian chai. I have learned to make this kind of beverage, which has a warming and soothing effect. Tea is a staple drink in India, and the country is among the world's top tea producers. I like Indian chai rather than drinking regular tea. However, I could not miss drinking a cup of coffee since I drink it regularly at any time. I am in India, so I can enjoy both beverages they offer.

I am also grateful to have been taught how to make their staple food, ' chapati and paratha.' Both are plain bread made from whole-grain flour, but cooking differs in thickness. I also learned to cook the 'dum aloo,' a dish made of potatoes and some spices that complements the 'paratha' or 'chapati.' I eat rice as my staple, but since I am in India, I must learn to eat the Indian way.

It is always good to learn something new. Learning another place's culture and tradition is a beautiful experience and wisdom. In a multicultural and diverse land, there is nothing to be ignorant about but to understand and accept its norms, beliefs, and social standing.

India may be a land of contrast, but I have witnessed and learned how they persevere and raise the bar towards excellence, making them achieve economic progress and rising power. Some severe challenges may be confronting them, but with faith, unity, and goodwill, India could gain something it deserves.

Wintertime in India is about to end, spring/summer is fast approaching, and it is like the rebirth--the restorative phase. It is the most beautiful season when the sky is clear, and the weather is warm with the blossoming flowers around. I hope I can witness their celebration of the 'Holi festival,' which marks the beginning of spring. For now, it is essential to be grateful for the learning that the winter could bring until such time that it will come to an end--then comes the season of rebirth.

© 2013 Del Cusay